JS Masterpiece Round 5 and hiding ends.
I am starting Round 5 of the Jan Stawasz doily and want to share some of what I had done and planning to do.
In my earlier post, Carollyn (Madtatter80) asked about the size difference between size 20 and size 80. In this photo, I placed the size 80 over the size 20 of the doily that I tatted a few years ago. A quick measure and simple calculation showed that the size 80 is just under three-quarters the size 20 doily.
I tatted a sample of Rd 5, repeating the red of Rd 4 in the centre of the motif of Rd 5. I felt that it may look too 'dark' with the reds close together and decided to just use the ombre.
I have been using several methods of starting and ending my tatting that leave only ONE end to hide at the end.
I start with the Continuous Thread Method (CTM) wherever possible which straightaway eliminates two ends at the beginning.
If I have two shuttles with the same shade of thread, I can still start with the CTM, by pulling out some amount of the tread from one of the shuttle and start tatting partway from the end that I had pulled off. This thread that I had pulled off (the 1st shuttle) becomes part of the 2nd shuttle thread. When that runs out, the thread from the 2nd shuttle is added by the easy tatting-over-tails method.
If using to different colours, there is another way of starting by tatting over tails described by Jane Eborall in her techniques page for Starting Ring no-knot Method that straightaway hides the two ends at the start.
As for the ending, Jane has also provided a clear tutorial in pictures of hiding one end in the last chain, Hiding Ends no-knot Method.
These are the methods that I have been using that leave me with only one end to hide, which I usually sew in.
However, Rd 5 of this masterpiece doily has 12 motifs and I don't fancy sewing in 12 ends of size 80 into tiny double stitches that I can barely see. And so, I decided to re-visit the other technique of hiding ends, i.e. the magic thread trick. Again, I am sharing Jane's tutorial because she made it so clear and easy to understand. The only thing is that, the loop of the magic thread must be added at the beginning (where you started) and I tend to forget to do that in previous cases. You can see this loop (the red loop) in the photo above.
Who knows, this technique may grow on me and I will continue to use it for other projects.
I tatted a sample of Rd 5, repeating the red of Rd 4 in the centre of the motif of Rd 5. I felt that it may look too 'dark' with the reds close together and decided to just use the ombre.
I have been using several methods of starting and ending my tatting that leave only ONE end to hide at the end.
I start with the Continuous Thread Method (CTM) wherever possible which straightaway eliminates two ends at the beginning.
If I have two shuttles with the same shade of thread, I can still start with the CTM, by pulling out some amount of the tread from one of the shuttle and start tatting partway from the end that I had pulled off. This thread that I had pulled off (the 1st shuttle) becomes part of the 2nd shuttle thread. When that runs out, the thread from the 2nd shuttle is added by the easy tatting-over-tails method.
If using to different colours, there is another way of starting by tatting over tails described by Jane Eborall in her techniques page for Starting Ring no-knot Method that straightaway hides the two ends at the start.
As for the ending, Jane has also provided a clear tutorial in pictures of hiding one end in the last chain, Hiding Ends no-knot Method.
These are the methods that I have been using that leave me with only one end to hide, which I usually sew in.
However, Rd 5 of this masterpiece doily has 12 motifs and I don't fancy sewing in 12 ends of size 80 into tiny double stitches that I can barely see. And so, I decided to re-visit the other technique of hiding ends, i.e. the magic thread trick. Again, I am sharing Jane's tutorial because she made it so clear and easy to understand. The only thing is that, the loop of the magic thread must be added at the beginning (where you started) and I tend to forget to do that in previous cases. You can see this loop (the red loop) in the photo above.
Who knows, this technique may grow on me and I will continue to use it for other projects.
It’s interesting that the size 80 is not tremendously smaller than the 20.
ReplyDeleteInteresting post
ReplyDeleteOh thanks for the measurements I think 3/4is a big difference it's looking beautiful and great tips too.
ReplyDeleteI wondered how much smaller it would be in size 80. Thanks for sharing! I often refer to Jane's method pages. They're so helpful!
ReplyDeleteIt is so much easier to see a visual comparison of the size and having one already made in size 20 helps a lot.
ReplyDeletewow, I just stumbled on your blog, and I have already learned from you. thank you, all help is wonderful for me as I'm learning. I did find a YouTube video that uses a magic loop to hide ends, she used fire wire and it work really well.
ReplyDelete