Showing posts with label 1 shuttle. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1 shuttle. Show all posts
6 May 2011
19 Jun 2010
Flutters
This is a simple butterfly pattern that you can make with that little bit of thread left from a project.
Most butterfly patterns available show the four wings, but these are shown in profile. Just something different from the usual ones.
Each butterfly takes up about 90cm (3ft) of thread, uses shuttle only (no ball thread), contains rings and split rings, and a little bit of finger tatting. The finished size measured about 2cm from the tip of the upper wing to the tip of the lower ring.
Start the first ring about 10cm (4 inches) from the beginning of the thread.
Begin with the big wing of the butterfly,
R1(11-1-1-9-2). Make the picots graduated picots.
R2(2+[to last picot of R1]8-10)
R3(3-3)
The next two rings are split rings. For the split rings, finger tat the second half of the split rings using the 10cm thread that was left at the beginning.
Split ring SR1(3-1-1-1/3).
Split ring SR2(3/3).
Cut off the threads to required length to make the feelers. Snip off the picots in SR1 to make the legs.
If adding beads to the butterfly, you need 6 beads on the thread. Make rings 1, 2 and 3 as follows.
R1(12[3b:1b]10-2), where [3b:1b] means 3 beads from the loop thread round the fingers, and 1 bead on the shuttle thread.
R2(2+8[1b]10
R3(3[1b]3)
Happy Tatting
Most butterfly patterns available show the four wings, but these are shown in profile. Just something different from the usual ones.
Each butterfly takes up about 90cm (3ft) of thread, uses shuttle only (no ball thread), contains rings and split rings, and a little bit of finger tatting. The finished size measured about 2cm from the tip of the upper wing to the tip of the lower ring.
Start the first ring about 10cm (4 inches) from the beginning of the thread.
Begin with the big wing of the butterfly,
R1(11-1-1-9-2). Make the picots graduated picots.
R2(2+[to last picot of R1]8-10)
R3(3-3)
The next two rings are split rings. For the split rings, finger tat the second half of the split rings using the 10cm thread that was left at the beginning.
Split ring SR1(3-1-1-1/3).
Split ring SR2(3/3).
Cut off the threads to required length to make the feelers. Snip off the picots in SR1 to make the legs.
If adding beads to the butterfly, you need 6 beads on the thread. Make rings 1, 2 and 3 as follows.
R1(12[3b:1b]10-2), where [3b:1b] means 3 beads from the loop thread round the fingers, and 1 bead on the shuttle thread.
R2(2+8[1b]10
R3(3[1b]3)
Happy Tatting
24 Feb 2010
Dragonfly and Swan
These two motifs are quite fast to tat up and doesn't take much thread. They are useful for emptying shuttles when you need them to start on a new project.
Since they are quite simple designs, there is the possibility that someone has thought of the patten already, but I have come up with these on my own without referring to any other patterns that may have been done before.
I am giving the patterns in chart form with a little explanation along the side. If you need any help with them, please e-mail me.
This pattern is made with one shuttle with a little finger tatting. I have added beads in the chart but you can replace them with picots.
Leave a tail of about 20cm and make the first ring at the tail-end of the dragongfly, i.e. the ring R(5-5) and proceed with the split rings, followed by the wings on the left side of the chart .
The lower wings are joined to the 2nd split ring of the lower part of the body. The upper wings are joined to the head of the dragonfly.
Male a long picot in the ring for the head which is then cut to form the feelers.
The pattern ends with the lower wing on the right side of the chart. Cut and hide the ends.
If you don't like ends, you can try this alternative.
You need about 150cm of thread for this. Start in the middle of the thread, i.e. 75cm on each side.
You need about 150cm of thread for this. Start in the middle of the thread, i.e. 75cm on each side.
Make the first ring at the tail end. followed by the split rings. Use one side of the thread to make the wings on the left side, and the other thread to make the right wings. For the right side, make the double stitches in reverse order, i.e. the second half of the stitch first. Finish with a split ring for the head, close the ring and cut off the thread with enough length for the feelers.
I have since found out that dragonflies don't have feelers/antennae. They have stubs at the top of the head for eyes. So, instead of making a long picot you make a regular ring with 2ds separating the beads instead.
I have since found out that dragonflies don't have feelers/antennae. They have stubs at the top of the head for eyes. So, instead of making a long picot you make a regular ring with 2ds separating the beads instead.
Swan
After closing the second ring of the body, make a shoe-lace knot (SLT) to change the position of the thread left at the beginning. Using this thread as a ball, make the neck of the swan, joining to the body as shown in the chart.
Make a split ring for the head and cut off the ends leaving just enough for the beak.
22 Oct 2008
Jon's Heart
This is the pattern for the heart that I use in my profile image.

This heart pattern uses one shuttle only.
All rings have the stitch count of R(4-2-2-2-2-4) with joins made where indicated in the chart.
Ring with different stitch counts are numbered accordingly in the chart.
Reverse work to make the 8th ring.
The design would look better if you make this ring and the next seven rings in the reverse order double stitch (RODS), i.e making the second half of the double stitch first.
Also, I find that while making the ring with RODS, the closed rings look better if you drop the shuttle through the ring loop before closing it.
There is a single-shuttle split ring at the tip of the heart, shown in green in the chart above.
I don't have a link to any tutorial on single-shuttle split ring. The only one that I know was in Georgia Seitz's site and that is currently not available. But I will describe it as best as I can on how to make it in this pattern.
To make the single shuttle split ring.
Make one side of the ring as the normal ring. In this case R(4-2-2/..). Then close this ring but not fully. Leave about 2/3 (of the length of the other half of the ring) of the core thread exposed. Next, make the thrown ring at the tip of the heart R(2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2), closing it fully.
Now, to complete the other half of the split ring, use the method for making the double-stitches on a split chain. Here is the link to my tutorial for the Split Chain.

This heart pattern uses one shuttle only.All rings have the stitch count of R(4-2-2-2-2-4) with joins made where indicated in the chart.
Ring with different stitch counts are numbered accordingly in the chart.
Reverse work to make the 8th ring.
The design would look better if you make this ring and the next seven rings in the reverse order double stitch (RODS), i.e making the second half of the double stitch first.
Also, I find that while making the ring with RODS, the closed rings look better if you drop the shuttle through the ring loop before closing it.
There is a single-shuttle split ring at the tip of the heart, shown in green in the chart above.
I don't have a link to any tutorial on single-shuttle split ring. The only one that I know was in Georgia Seitz's site and that is currently not available. But I will describe it as best as I can on how to make it in this pattern.
To make the single shuttle split ring.
Make one side of the ring as the normal ring. In this case R(4-2-2/..). Then close this ring but not fully. Leave about 2/3 (of the length of the other half of the ring) of the core thread exposed. Next, make the thrown ring at the tip of the heart R(2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2), closing it fully.
Now, to complete the other half of the split ring, use the method for making the double-stitches on a split chain. Here is the link to my tutorial for the Split Chain.
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