Rose Window

Another snowflake design.

Model is tatted in size 40, size is 7cm across (point to point)

This is a two-shuttles pattern worked in three rounds.  I utilised a split ring in the pattern to jump out from the centre ring. The rounds in the charts are show in Yellow – Rnd 1, Green – Rnd 2 and Blue – Rnd 3.

Round 1

Begin in the centre with,
R(2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2), make each picot about 6mm long (when open) if using size 40 thread.
SR(4-2/4-2). Make sure to leave a distance of about the length of the picot of the centre ring before making the split ring.
Make the ring on the right side of the split ring as,
R(2+[p of the SR]4-6), completing the cloverleaf.
Flip the work over and make the ring on the other side of the SR, working on RODS,
R(2+[p of the SR]4-6).
Flip back to the front and reverse work.
(*) C(6-6), rw
R(6+[p of right ring of cloverleaf]6), rw.
C(6-6), rw.
Make the next cloverleaf,
R(6+[p of pr ring]4-2), R(2+[p of pr ring]4+[skip one p, join to next p of centre ring]4-2), R(2+[p of pr ring]4-6). Rw.

Repeat from (*) to finish this round. Cut and tie to beginning cloverleaf.

Round 2 – two shuttles
Join thread to any chain after the ring of (6-6) of Round 1. Begin with a chain.
C(3-3 +[lj to p of next ch of Rnd 1] vsp 8 +[lj to base of ring of Rnd 1]), dnr.
(§) Switch shuttle (SS), Jk(10), dnr.
SS, C(8 +[lj to p of next chain of Rnd 1] vsp 3-3 +[lj to p of next ch of Rnd 1] vsp 8 +[lj to base of next ring of Rnd 1]), dnr.
Repeat from (§) to finish this round, ending with a lock join to the beginning chain.
DO NOT CUT thread, continue with Round 3

Round 3
C(5-5 +[lj to vsp of Rnd 2]7-3), dnr.
(δ) SS, R(3+[p of pr chain]5-5-3), R(3+[p of pr ring]2-2-2-2-2-3), R(3+[p of pr ring]5-5-3), dnr.
SS, C(3+[p of pr ring]7 +[lj to next vsp of Rnd 2]5-5+[lj to next vsp of Rnd 2]7-3), dnr.
Repeat from (δ) to finish the round.

Cut thread, join to the beginning and hide ends.

Two by Two

...  off to school we go.
A bookmark suitable for beginner tatters to practise using two shuttles.
Made in two rounds but only Round 1 requiring two shuttles.

Enlarged picture of the bookmark

This is the chart for the bookmark, 

Please contact me if you have any questions about the pattern.

Foldover Bookmark

A simple bookmark free of over-hanging tails, tassel or ribbons.  Stays neatly in the book without getting lost in the pages.  Only a small speck is visible from the top of the book.

How the bookmark appears when placed in the book.

The pattern is available here.

Enchanter

My Valentine gift to you this year 

I know there are still a few days more, but if you are still searching for hearts to tat, you may want to try this.
The chart is below

 

Load two shuttles CTM.
Begin with the dimpled ring (DR) in the centre of the heart with the stitch count of
DR(7-7-7sp7+[to the sp]7-7-7)
Then, make a split ring SR(2-2-2-2/2-2-2-2).
Rotate work so that the dimpled ring is now pointing downwards.
R(6-6)
Switch Shuttle (SS), C(12) and reverse work (rw).
R(4-4+[to the first picot of the DR]4-4), rw.
C(10), rw.
R(4-4+[to the 2nd picot of the DR]8), rw.
C(2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2), rw.
R(8+[to the picot of the DR joined earlier]4-4), rw.
C(8), rw.
R(4+[to the sp join of the DR]4), rw.
C(8), rw.
R(4-4+[to the 4th picot of the DR]8), rw.
C(2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2), rw.
R(8+[to the picot of the DR joined earlier]4-4), rw.
C(10), rw.
R(4-4+[to the last picot of the DR]4-4), rw.
C(12)
Leave a tail of about four inches of thread from each shuttle before cutting.  Tie the ends to the space between the split ring and the floating ring.
Tie the ends into a bow. Isn't that great - no ends to hide.

Jar cover/Coaster

This design was first shared on the Tatting Pattern Calendar blog organised by Ruth Perry.
It is one design which can be used in two ways, as a jar cover or a coaster.

Click on the link, Jar Cover/Coaster for the pdf file of the pattern.

Chinese Coin Bookmark

This is quite an easy bookmark to make, but you will need to know how to make split rings.  I call this the Chinese Coin bookmark because the shape of the individual repeat is like an ancient Chinese coin.  Click here to find out about the different type of Chinese coins that were once used in China.

I find this design interesting because it can be made in two ways.  You can either make individual motif and join them up, or in one pass. It can be a very colourful piece if the individual motifs are made in different colours.



Click on this link Chinese Coin Bookmark for the pdf file of the pattern.

Ooops ... there seem to be an error in retrieving the chart for this bookmark.  Please wait a while while I try and upload it direct to this post.  Sorry about this. 
The two charts for the bookmark has been added below.

This is the chart for making the bookmark in individual motifs joined together.  The rings shown in green are split rings with the stitch count of SR(4-4/4-4).

This chart on the right is for making it in one pass.
Here, the left side of the bookmark is made first.  When you reach the length that you require, make a turn at the end and continue with the right side.



The rings shown in pink are split rings with the stitch count of SR(4-4-4/4).

Another ooopsy ... 
If you had downloaded the file earlier, there is a mistake in the stitch count for the split rings marked in blue in the second chart.
The rings shown in pink and blue should have the same stitch count, i.e SR(4-4-4/4).
The chart should look like the one in the blog post here.

I have amended the chart in the pdf file to show the correction.

Featherline Snowflake

Model is tatted with Olympus 40 and measures 7.5cm across point-to-point.

Two shuttles with SCMRs (Self-closing Mock Rings)

Round 1

This round is made entirely of SCMRs with floating ring with each SCMR. CLick on the link for a tutorial on SCMRs.  The SCMRs are shown in green in the chart.  For this snowflake, I use the GR-8 Brothers method of making the SCMRs.

SCMR(5-4..). Do not close the SCMR at this point.
Switch shuttle (SS) and make the floating ring R(3-3-4-3-3).
SS and continue with the SCMR (..4-5).  Close the SCMR.

Make a SLT with the two shuttle threads.

(*)SCMR(5+[to the last picot of the previous SCMR]4..).  Do not close the SCMR.
SS and make the floating ring R(3-3-4-3-3).
SS and continue with the SCMR(..4-5).  Close the SCMR.

Repeat from (*) four times.  The last SCMR is joined on both sides, to the previous SCMR and to the first SCMR.  Cut thread, tie and hide ends.

Round 2

R(4-3-5), reverse work (RW)
SS, R(3-3+[to the picot on the 2nd picot if any floating ring of Rd 1]3-3).  Do not reverse.
(*)SS, C(6). RW
R(5+[to last picot of adj ring]3-4). Do not reverse.
SS, R(3-3+[to 3rd picot of the next floating ring]3-3). RW.
C(3-3-3), do not reverse.
SS, R(3+[last picot of previous chain]3-4-2), R(2+[last picot of previous ring]4-4-2) and R(2+[last picot of previous ring]4-3-3). Do not reverse.
SS, C(3+[to last picot of previous ring]3-3). Do not reverse.
SS, R(4-3-5), reverse work.
SS, R(3-3+[to 2nd picot of floating ring joined earlier]3-3). Do not reverse.

SS and repeat from (*) to complete.

Click HERE to download the pattern.

Square Block

This design is one of my earlier ones that finally got round to be written and diagrammed. It is a square motif that I made as one of the entries in my 25-motif challenge.

I have since completed my challenge but I encourage you to visit the challenge blog and see the work of others tatters who are still participating in the challenge. And if you have not done so, you may be tempted to join up.


The picture above is showing four of the square blocks joined together to make a bigger square.

Pattern uses two shuttles

The chart

The written instructions

R(3-3-3-3) , reverse work (rw).
C(4-6), do not reverse (dnr).

(*)Switch Shuttle (SS), R(4-4-4), rw. C(6), dnr.

SS, R(3-3+3-30, join to the middle picot of first ring, dnr
R(3-3-3-3), dnr.

SS, C(6), rw. R(4+4-4), join to the adjacent ring at the second picot, dnr.

SS, C(6-4), rw. R(3-3+3-3), join to the middle picot of the opposite ring, dnr.

SS, C(4-2), dnr.

SS, R(2+4-3-3), join to the picot of previous chain, dnr.
R(3+4-4-3), join to last picot of previous ring, dnr.
R(3+3-4-2), join to last picot of previous ring., dnr.

SS, C(2+4), join to last picot of previous ring, dnr.

SS, R(3-3-3-3), rw. C(4+6) join to picot of opposite chain, dnr.

Repeat from (*) to complete the motif, replacing the first picot with a join to picot of the adjacent ring.

Hearts Entwined/Crowning Hearts

Something to consider while you prepare for Valentine's Day.




I would like to thank Christina Scheffer for test-tatting the pattern for me.

Uses two shuttles

R(3-3-3-3), do not reverse (DNR)
R(3-3-3-3), reverse work (RW)
C(3-3-3-3-3-3), RW
R(3-3-3-3), DNR, R(3-3-3-3), RW.
C(3-3-3-3), RW.
R(3-3-3-3), RW C(3-3-3-3) RW
R(3-3-3-3) RW, C(3-3-3-3) DNR.

Switch Shuttles (SS), R(3-3-3-3) RW.
C(4-4+4+4+4-4), join in sequence, to the middle picots of the 6th, 5th and 4th rings from the start. DNR

SS, (Clover1) R(3-3-3-3),
R(3+2-2-2-2-3) join to last picot previous ring, and
R(3+3-3-3) join to last picot previous ring, RW.
C(3-3-3-3-3+3-3-3-3-3-3-3-3), join to the 7th ring from the start. DNR.

SS, (clover2) R(3+3-3-3) join to last picot of previous chain,
R(3+2-2-2-2-3) join to last picot previous ring, and
R(3+3-3-3) join to last picot previous ring. DNR.

SS, C(3+3-3-3-3) join to last picot previous ring, RW and switch shuttles again.
At this point, make a tiny mock picot at the beginning, on the under side of the chain that will be made next.
C(10+6+6), 1st join to the middle picot of the opposite ring (in the first ring of Clover1), 2nd join to the 3rd ring made (from the start). RW.
R(2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2) RW.
C(6+6-10+) join to the middle picot of the 2nd ring made. End with a lock join to the tiny mock picot made earlier. RW.

SS, C(3-3-3-3-3), DNR

SS, (Clover3) R(3+3-3-3) join to the last picot of the previous chain,
R(3+2-2-2-2-3) join to last picot previous ring, and
R(3+3-3-3) join to last picot previous ring , DNR.

SS, C(3+3-3-3-3-3-3-3-3-3-3-3-3) join to last picot previous ring, RW.
(Clover 4) R(3-3-3-3),
R(2+2-2-2-2-2), join to last picot previous ring, and
R(3+3+3-3), 1st join to last picot previous ring, 2nd join to the picot of the chain that form the small heart in the centre. DNR.

SS, C(4-4+4-4-4-4) join to the middle picot of the 1st ring made, RW.
R(3+3-3-3), join to the 7th free picot of the opposite chain (counting from Clover3), DNR.

SS, C(3-3-3-3), RW
R(3-3+3-3), join to the 4th picot of the opposite chain, RW.
C(3-3-3-3) RW.
R(3-3+3-3), join to the 3rd picot of the same chain joined earlier, RW.

C(3-3-3-3+) lock join to the space between the first two rings. DNR.
Continue with the next chain, C(3-3-3-3+) lock join to the middle picot of the chain below it, DNR.

SS, R(3+2-2-2-2-3) join to the last picot of previous chain. DNR.

SS, C(3+3-3-3) join to last picot previous ring.

Cut and tie to the space between the next two rings. Hide ends.

'Quantiesque' Snowflake

To join in the spirit of giving, here is a present for you, readers of my blog. A snowflake pattern that I have just completed.


If you are wondering about the name, here is the explanation for it. I was transfixed by the effects of the centre which is a take of the Mary Quant logo of the 60's. The actual MQ logo has five 'petals'. Yes, I remember those times, :-). I must be really ancient to some of you, huh!

I didn't have time to draw the chart for this, but I will get it done and update the chart here later.

This snowflake is made in three rounds with a tiny bit of celtic effect made by Rounds 1 and 2 together.

Round 1 - using shuttle & ball

R(5-3-3-5), reverse work.
(*)C(8-8), reverse work.
R(5+3-3-5), join to last picot of previous ring, reverse work.
Repeat from (*) three time more.

C(8-8), reverse work.
R(5+3-3+5), joining to the last picot of previous ring, and the first picot of the first ring.
C(8-8)

Cut, tie and hide ends.


Round 2 - shuttle & ball

R(4-2-2-2-2-4), reverse work.
C(6), reverse work.
R(4+2-2-2-2-4), reverse work.
C(10-10), reverse work.

Repeat these four steps, joining the last chain to the first ring. Cut, tie and hide ends.

What you should get is six pairs of rings joined together with a long chain as in this picture on the right.


Next, slip each pair of rings of Round 2 through each chain of Round 1, see right.




Round 3 - two shuttles

R(5+5), join to last picot of the 2nd ring of one pair of rings of Rnd 2. Do not reverse.
(*) R(5+5), join to the 1st picot of the 1st ring of the next pair of rings of Rnd 2. Reverse work.

C(3-3-3-3+), joined to the middle picot of the ring joined earlier. Reverse work.

Switch shuttle (SS), C(6), reverse work.
Make the clover, R(4-4-4-4), R(4+2-2-2-2-4) and R(4+4-4-4), reverse work.
C(6), reverse work.

SS, lock join to the middle picot of the next ring on the same pair of rings.
C(3-3-3-3), reverse work.
R(5+5), join to the last picot of the same ring joined earlier.

Repeat from (*) all round, joining the last chain to the beginning.

Cut, tie and hide ends.

I don't know if you still have time to make this to add to your tree. If you do, I'd love to see a photo of the snowflake, if it is possible. The model here is tatted using Pamela Myers' Coral Reef in size 40.

Star in Clovers (Purple Star)

Another remake of an earlier design which I finally got round to writing out the pattern for. I had earlier called this Purple Star because of the thread that I used. But it would not be appropriate if tatted with other shades, hence another name for it.


The model was tatted using size 20 thread and measured 8cm from the centre to the point of the star (about 3.25 in) or 16cm across (about 6.5 inches). I suppose it can be considered as a small doily with this size thread or a star if made with finer thread.

The pattern uses two shuttles.

Clover 1, R(4-4-4-4), R(4+6-4-6-4) and R(4+4-4-4). Do not reverse (DNR).

Switch Shuttle (SS), C(4+4-4-4 vsp 4-4), where vsp is very small picot. Join to last picot of previous ring (lppr), RW.

Clover 2, R(4-4-5-3), R(3+5-5-3) and R(3+5-4-4), RW.

(*) C(4-4), DNR.
SS, R(3-3-3-3), DNR.
SS, C(4-4) RW.

Clover 3, R(5-5+6-4) join to last ring of Clover 2, R(4+4-2-2-4-4) and R(4+6-5-5), RW.
C(4-5-5-4), RW.

Clover 4, R(4-4+4-2-2-4-4), R(4+4-2-2-2-2-4-4) and R(4+4-2-2-4-4), RW.
C(4+5-5-4) join to last picot previous chain. RW.

Repeat Clover 3, joining as shown in the chart. RW.
C(4-4), DNR.
SS, R(3-3+3-3), join to middle picot of opposite ring, DNR.
SS, C(4-4), RW.

Repeat Clover 2, joining as shown in the chart, RW.
C(4-4), DNR.
SS, R(3-3+3-3) join to the vsp of the opposite chain. DNR.
SS, C(4-4-4-4), DNR.

SS, repeat Clover 1, joining as shown in the chart. DNR.
SS,, C(4+4-4-4 vsp 4-4), join to the last ring of the previous clover. RW.

Repeat Clover 2, joining as shown in the chart.

Repeat from (*) to complete the other four points of the star.

I think I have covered all the points for this pattern. Please let me know if there are any errors in it and I will make the corrections.

Heart o' Daisies

This heart design was one of the earlier ones that I made for the 25-motif Challenge. It came about when I was thinking of ways to use up the small balance of thread left in shuttles.

It is made up of several small daisies joined up together and arranged to from a heart shape.

The chart for making this heart is given below.

The stitch count for each ring in the daisy motif is R(3-4-4-3). Make five rings for each daisy.

The chains encircling the daisies form the heart shape. Each picot in the chains are separated by two double stitches. The number in the brackets shown in the chart refer to the number of picots for the respective segment of the chains. Begin the chain by joining the thread to the joining picot between two rings of the daisy in the middle -top.




This daisies in the heart can be made in one pass with split rings. The rings shown in green in the chart are where the split rings are. To make it this way, begin with the daisy in the centre of the heart. Then make the one on top of it followed by the right or left daisy, depending on which way you work it.

Updated on Sept 4, 2008
This is the split ring version that I have just finished tatting. There are slight differences in where I made the split rings compared to that shown in the chart above because I wanted to make full use of the two colours to highlight the design.

Facing Rings Edging with a Corner Added

The pattern for this common design is often shown without the instructions for making a corner.
I have designed my version of a corner. . . . .


. . . . and the instructions on how to make it.

Uses two shuttles, starting along the straight edge.


R(3-3-3-3), reverse work (RW).
Switch Shuttles (SS), R(3-3-3-3), do not reverse (DNR).
(*) SS, C(4) DNR.
R(3+3-3-3) join to last picot of adjacent ring (first ring made), RW.
SS, R(3+3-3-3), join to last picot of adjacent ring (2nd ring made), DNR.

Repeat from (*) until ready to make the corner, as follows;
After completing the last pair of the facing rings, make C(3), RW.
R(3+3-3-3-3-3) join to the last picot of the adjacent ring, RW.
C(3+), lock join to the inside ring of the the last pair of rings before the turn, RW.
R(3+3-3-3) join to the last picot of the ring in the corner, DNR.

Repeat from (*) until ready to make the next corner.

Dimpled Chain Edging

This edging is made up entirely of chains .. with a dimple in each one of them!


sp - small picot
vsp - very small picot
RW - reverse work
DNR - do not reverse
SLT - shoe lace trick

The pattern
Wind a shuttle from a ball CTM

The straight side
1. Start with a picot at the beginning of the first chain. I used a paperclip to hold the thread for a mock picot. C(6 sp 3-3 sp 5+3-3 sp-6+), where
1st join is to the previous sp of the chain;
2nd join to the mock picot left after the paperclip is removed from the chain. RW and SLT.
2. * C(3-3 sp 5+3-2), join to the sp of the same chain. RW and SLT.
3. Make a downward facing picot at the beginning of the next chain.
4. # C(5+3-3 sp 5+3-3 sp 6+),
1st join to the sp of the previous dimpled chain; 2nd join to the sp picot of the same chain; 3rd join to the downward picot at the beginning of the chain. RW and SLT.

Repeat from * for the length of the straight side.

The corner
5. After #, make C(3-3 sp 5+3 vsp 3). RW and SLT.
6. Make a downward picot at the beginning of the next chain, followed by (6+3-3 sp 5+3-3 sp 6+). Joining as in Step 4. DNR.
7. C(6+3-3 sp 5+3-3 sp 6+), 1st and 2nd join as in Step 4; 3rd join to the same downward picot joined earlier. RW and SLT.
8. C(3+3 sp 5+3-3), 1st join to the adjacent vsp; 2nd join to the sp of the same chain. RW and SLT.

Continue from # for the straight side until you are ready to make the next corner.

Additional Note
If you study the chart, you'll realise that this edging can also be tatted up similar to making the standard ring-and-chain, except that now the rings and chains have dimples in them.

But, I don't fancy the idea of having to close loads of dimpled rings. Working with chains are whole lot easier because I don't have to worry about closing any rings. For those who want to try it that way, Jane Eb has drawn up a neat method on how to close dimpled rings.

Please test out the pattern for me and point out any corrections that needs to be done. I got confused myself when writing this out, especially with the RWs and the SLTs.

A Row of Crowns

Another edging design with the corner included.....


... and the diagram.....


I couldn't pick a name for this edging at first. It looks like a series of crowns. Looking at it again, it appears like scared faces with the hair all standing up! Some have even suggested that each repeat look like a frog!

But I'm going with my first instinct and call it A Row of Crowns

A little explanation about the chart -

1. Make the third picot in the R(3-3-3-3-3-3-3) small.

2. The ring shown in blue/green at the corner is a SCMR. After making (4+4..) of the SCMR, switch shuttle and make the clover. Resume the SCMR with another 4ds and close. Using SCMR allows you to make the corner in one pass.

3. If you do not wish to use the SCMR, ignore that part when you make the corner. Instead make the chain as (8-4) for the first repeat at the turn. When you have completed the round for the edging, go back to each corner and fill it in. With shuttle only, make the clovers as in the diagram. Then, make the fourth ring R(4+4+4), joining to the picot in each chain at the corner. Cut and join to the base of the clover.

Daisy Picot Snowflake

Click here for the instructions on how to make daisy picots.


Wind two shuttle with different colour thread for each shuttle.

The centre Daisy - 6 rings altogether.

R(5-3-2-2-3-5). You can make the centre picot slightly bigger for decorative purposes.
R(5+3-2-2-3-5), joining to the last picot of the previous ring.
The last ring is joined to the previous ring and also to the first ring with the folded join.

Round 1
R1(6+6), joining to the 3rd free picot of any of the rings in the centre daisy.
R2(6+6), joining to the 1st free picot of the next ring of the centre daisy.
Reverse work.

Make a chain C(2-2-2-2-2-2-2-2) Do not reverse.

(*)Now make the daisy picots with 3 petals, where each petal is (5-5) and 2ds between each petal.

Close the ring, do not reverse and repeat the chain.

Reverse work and repeat the two rings of R(6+6), joining the 1st ring to the 3rd free picot of the previous ring and the 2nd ring to the 1st free picot of the next ring of the centre daisy.

Reverse work and repeat the chain (2+2-2-2-2-2-2-2), joining to the last picot of the previous chain.

Repeat from (*) to complete the snowflake.