Tat-a-Renda Tat-along Doily

This doily was first posted in my Facebook page as a tat-along.


  • Thread: Olympus Gold Special, 2 balls. 
  • Tools: Shuttle, 2 shuttles in certain rounds. I tatted this with shuttles but I believe needle-tatters should be able to tat this with no problems. 
  • Techniques: Rings, Chains, Thrown Rings, Split Rings (Optional), Split Chains (Optional), lock joins (besides the regular join). 
  • Finished size: 28cm.
This tat-along doily can be tatted with shuttle-and-ball except for rounds 4, 9 and 11, where two shuttles will be required because there are thrown rings in these rounds. Additional techniques used, besides rings and chains, are thrown rings and lock joins. You can cut and tie after each round but you can continue into the next rounds without cutting by utilising split chains and split rings where suitable.

Round 1:
All rings are (7+3-3-7), joined to each other as shown in the photo.
All chains are (4-4-4-4).
Round 2:
The rings are all (4+4-4-4) and joined where shown.
One ring is joined to the middle picot in the chain from Rd 1, in a three-rings repeat.

Round 3:
All rings are (2-2-2-2+2-2-2-2) joined to the chain in Rd 2, as shown in the photo.
Round 4:
This round is slightly different and needs two shuttles because there are thrown rings in the chain.
The chains are attached with a lock join to the middle picots of the chains in Rd 3.
The small thrown ring is (2-2-2-2).

Do Not cut the thread after this round as you can continue into Rd 5.

Round 5:
This round is made up of all chains.
The stitch count for each repeat is (7-4-4-4-7), and a lock join to the space at the lock join in Rd 4.

Round 6:
All rings are (4-4+4-4) and joined as shown in the photo.
Round 7:
All rings are (2-2-2+2-2-2) and joined to Rd 6 as shown in the photo.
All chains are (5-5).

Round 8:
All rings are (2-2-2+2-2-2) and joined to Rd 7 as shown in the photo.
All chains are (3-3-3-3).


Round 9:
This round require two shuttle because of the thrown rings in it.

It starts with a join to the centre picot in any chain of Rd 8. For cases where I have to start this way, I make a lock join to the picot I am starting from and the subsequent picots.

Do not cut the thread after this round as you can continue into Rd 10 after this. (See notes for Rd 10 below).

All small rings are (2-2-2-2).
All chains are 5 ds before and after the small ring.
Round 10:
This is another all chains round that is joined (with a lock join) to the small space where the lock join is in the previous round.

Continue from where you end Rd 9 without cutting the thread.

This is a "tight round", meaning you'll have to snug up the double stitches in the chains real close before making that lock join.

Make small joining picots in the chains so that the chains before and after the lock join stand up well against each other.

Round 11:
You will need two shuttles for this round because of the small thrown ring in the chains.
Rd 11 is as Rd 9 with same stitch count.
The small rings are (2-2-2-2).
The chains are 5ds before and after the small rings, lock-joined to the picot in the chain of Rd 10.

Note: there will be a slight cupping of this round but it will flatten out when you do Rd 12.


Round 12:
This round is similar to Rd 10 with a different stitch count.

This is an all-chains round which I started by making a lock join to the picot in any chain of Rd 11.
The stitch count are (8-5-5-5-8) joining as shown in the photo.
As I wrote above, this round will flatten the cupping in Rd 11. The full photo up to Rd 12 was snapped without the need for blocking.


Round 13:
This is another all chains round.
Start with a lock join to a picot in the previous round and follow the stitch count given in the photo.
Note where the (3-3) chains and the (6-6) chains are in relation to the arches of the previous round.



Round 14:
This is the final round of the tat-along.

Moving right-to-left in the photo; reverse work after each ring/chain. Please refer to the photos on where the joins are.

1. R(2-2-2+2-2-2), C(4)
2. R(3-2+2-2-5), C(4-4)
3. R(5+2-2-5), C(4-4-4)
4. R(5+2-2-5), C(4-4)
5. R(5+2-2+2-3), C(4)
Repeat from step 1 for the next pattern repeat.


Comments

  1. I tatted this, thanks very much, it’s happily displayed on a table in my living room.

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  2. Thank you for tatting my project. I hope you had a wonderful tat time with it.

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  3. I'm still working on this doily. I think I have too many projects in progress!

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  4. Thank you Jon for posting your pretty doily pattern.

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  5. Beautiful doily!!! :) Thank you for sharing your pattern!!

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  6. Thanks for the pattern, need to load up shuttles and get started.

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  7. Thanks very much for sharing. I will definitely tat this when I am able to do it.

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  8. Már a facén is megcsodáltam a terítőt...hasonló fonalam is van.....terv is megvan...Köszönöm..

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  9. Beautifully presented! A perfect blending of photos and at-a-glance descriptions! If all tatting instructions could be shown so efficiently, I would tackle more projects! This is a great design! I feel as though I could finish it in no time!

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  10. Lovely doily Jon. A nice way to challenge one of my greatest tatting foes...chains that touch!!
    Get onto this one as soon as I can.
    Thank you for sharing your talent with us all. Hugs.

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  11. Loving the simple step by step instructions made it so much easier to do. Greatly appreciated. Yes I did it, working on the final row just now!

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  12. Looking forward for more row by row instructions.

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  13. Thank you for giving the written instruction with diagram for this doily It is a beautiful piece

    You have also posted this free , Thank you

    Regards
    Sharadha

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  14. I am enjoying tatting this. Is there a mistake in the instructions for row 11?
    *Rd12 is as Rd 10 with same stitch count.* Shouldn't it read Rd 11 is as Rd 9 with same stitch count?

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    Replies
    1. Thank you for pointing this out. I have corrected it.

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  15. Dear Jon I am stack with round 4. Could you give some detailed tips please 🙏 Thank you 😊

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    1. Hi Ginger, can you give me a little more info on which part of Rd 4 that you are having difficulties with?
      Thanks.

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  16. Jon: I just found this lovely doily on your site. (Yes, it's been awhile). It's so pretty. I like the little arches near the end.

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  17. I’m having some issues with this doily cupping, is that normal?

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    1. At what round are you getting the cupping?
      There will be some cupping at certain rounds but it will flatten when you do the next round.

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  18. I am on round 13. I am needle tasting this. I have learned a lot and am happy with how it is turning out. This is the biggest project I have take led as I just started starting about two months ago. Thank you Gor the great pattern.
    Phoebe

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  19. I just got to the last repeat of the last row. There is not room to do a last full repeat. I wish there was a way to post a picture to show you.
    I love this pattern. So frustrating I can not complete it at the end! Any ideas what I may have done wrong.


    Thanks

    Karen.

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    Replies
    1. Please e-mail to jonyusoff(at)gmail(dot)com, replacing the words in ( .. ) as appropriate.

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    2. I found my mistake. I missed a join on round 10. Throws off the rest of the rounds but not noticeable until the last round. I will prevail. Time to un-tat the last round as I was playing thread chicken with that color. Then just cut off the others and redo it.
      Thank you for such a quick response!!

      Karen

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  20. I figured out where I messed up. I missed a join to one of the arches several rows back. I un-tatted the last round as I was playing thread chicken and need to keep all of that color I can. Then cut the rest off. Now to get finished again. Love this pattern. Lesson learned. Look at each row carefully before moving on to the next.

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  21. What size thread did you use for this? I'm not familiar with the olympus gold special you used, and Google has been no help (it looks like maybe this comes in multiple sizes and yardages?). Thanks :)

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    1. I use Olympus Gold Special, a Japanese brand. It shown No. 40 on the label but it is thicker than #40 but thinner than #20. Size 30, maybe?

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    2. Are any adjustments in the number of doujble-stitches needed if using Lizbeth size 20?

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