Rosette Motif and Doily
Another pattern from an earlier design - a rosette motif. The pattern uses shuttle and ball.
The rosette centre, you'll need 90cm size 20 thread on the shuttle wound CTM.
Begin with a ring R(4-4-4-4-4-4), and reverse work.
The next rounds are all chains working round this centre ring.
Make a mock picot at the start of Round 1 and continue with the chain C(5+5+5+5+5+5), making a lock join to the picots of the centre ring. End with a lock join to the mock picot at the start of the round.
Continue with the other rounds for the rosette following the ds count shown in the chart.
For the final round, you'll need about 180cm of thread in the shuttle wound CTM.
Begin with R(5+5), join to the last picot in one segment of the rosette. Do not reverse.
R(5+5), join to the first picot of the next segment of the rosette, reverse work.
C(2-4-4-4-4+), lock join to the next picot,
(*) C(4-4-4-4-2), reverse work.
Repeat the first two rings, joining to the next two picots of the rosette respectively, reverse work.
C(2+4-4-4-4), join to the last picot of the previous chain.
Continue from (*) to complete the round.
Join up the motifs together to make a doily as in the picture below.
The rosette centre, you'll need 90cm size 20 thread on the shuttle wound CTM.Begin with a ring R(4-4-4-4-4-4), and reverse work.
The next rounds are all chains working round this centre ring.
Make a mock picot at the start of Round 1 and continue with the chain C(5+5+5+5+5+5), making a lock join to the picots of the centre ring. End with a lock join to the mock picot at the start of the round.
Continue with the other rounds for the rosette following the ds count shown in the chart.
For the final round, you'll need about 180cm of thread in the shuttle wound CTM.
Begin with R(5+5), join to the last picot in one segment of the rosette. Do not reverse.
R(5+5), join to the first picot of the next segment of the rosette, reverse work.
C(2-4-4-4-4+), lock join to the next picot,
(*) C(4-4-4-4-2), reverse work.
Repeat the first two rings, joining to the next two picots of the rosette respectively, reverse work.
C(2+4-4-4-4), join to the last picot of the previous chain.
Continue from (*) to complete the round.
Join up the motifs together to make a doily as in the picture below.
This is so pretty, Jon! Thank you for sharing the pattern!
ReplyDeleteI like this, I have printed it out and will be putting it in my "to do" stack.
ReplyDeleteladytats
Is this a pattern that will simply get larger and larger by adding more motifs? I'm looking for a tablecloth idea. Jean
ReplyDeleteHi jam554,
ReplyDeleteYes, the individual motifs can be joined up to make a bigger piece to the size of your choice. I like to make doilies this way because I can stop at anytime.
Hi Jon,
ReplyDeleteI am new to tatting and am loving your blog. Thank you so much for sharing. I am still learning some of the abbreviations that come with the craft. When you say "shuttle wound CTM" what does the CTM mean?
Thanks again!!
H
Hi Holly,
ReplyDeleteCTM means 'continuous thread method'. Here is a url to my blog post where I wrote about winding two shuttles with thread the CTM way,
Loading Two Shuttles CTM
Hope this helps.
How exactly do you make a mock picot? I'm sorry, I don't know that yet.
ReplyDeleteUrooj,
ReplyDeleteA mock picot is really a gap that you leave before starting the next ring or chain. It is to appear like a normal picot when you continue with the next element in the tatting.
In this pattern the mock picot is the one joining the centre ring to the first round of chains. Bat adding a mock picot, the centre ring will have the appearance of six picots of equal size, one of which os the mock picot.
I am going to be making small motifs and wish to join them to end up with a doily or table runner (haven't decided yet). When joining the motifs, is there a right or wrong way to do so? My motifs are very simple but should those joins be regular or would you suggest lock joins? I just don't want to be disappointed later. Many thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi Kathy,
DeleteJoining motifs together is the same as making joins as you tat the individual motifs. Choosing whether to use a regular join or a lock join entirely depends on the position of the joins. Usually, when joining a ring to a different part of a motif, or to another motif, a regular join is used so that you can close the ring after making the join. A lock join in a ring will lock the shuttle thread and make it impossible to close.
If the picot that you are joining to is above the row of double stitches that you are working on, then a regular join is used. If the picot is below the row of double stitches then a lock join is usually used, although there are also different kinds of joins that will give slightly different effect when used.
Here is a link to a blog entry by Miranda about the different kind of joins that is possible in tatting, Joins. Hope it helps.
thank you for sharing
ReplyDelete