Penultimate round of Spring
Yes, two more rounds to go to finish Renulek's Spring Doily.
Round 12 has a long chain joined to the previous round. Since I am using two colours for round 12, red rings and green chains, using the regular method for making a lock join will have a bit of red showing, like this,
Normally, I would not have minded that little blip if I am working with multi-coloured thread as is bound to happen. But, in this case, that red stood out in between the green and the tan variegated. To remove that blip, I followed an instruction that I had read in a new tatting book that I have gotten.
Instead of pulling the shuttle thread through to make the join, I pull the green ball thread and pass the shuttle through the green loop.
Then, I slowly pull the chain thread to close the loop but keeping the green thread wrapped over the red shuttle thread.
I even out the double stitches before the join and continue with the next set of double stitches after the join. Because the shuttle thread is not locked, you can still continue to adjust the spread of the double stitches even after you have made the join.
This is the beginning of my Round 12.
This is the tatting book recently bought, New Tatting by Tomoko Morimoto
In my opinion, it is a good book for beginners because she covers a lot of tatting basics in it. There are designs in there that can be appealing to all levels of tatters. In fact, I have one that I plan to tat after I have finished this Spring Doily.
Round 12 has a long chain joined to the previous round. Since I am using two colours for round 12, red rings and green chains, using the regular method for making a lock join will have a bit of red showing, like this,
Normally, I would not have minded that little blip if I am working with multi-coloured thread as is bound to happen. But, in this case, that red stood out in between the green and the tan variegated. To remove that blip, I followed an instruction that I had read in a new tatting book that I have gotten.
Instead of pulling the shuttle thread through to make the join, I pull the green ball thread and pass the shuttle through the green loop.
Then, I slowly pull the chain thread to close the loop but keeping the green thread wrapped over the red shuttle thread.
I even out the double stitches before the join and continue with the next set of double stitches after the join. Because the shuttle thread is not locked, you can still continue to adjust the spread of the double stitches even after you have made the join.
This is the beginning of my Round 12.
In my opinion, it is a good book for beginners because she covers a lot of tatting basics in it. There are designs in there that can be appealing to all levels of tatters. In fact, I have one that I plan to tat after I have finished this Spring Doily.
That is an interesting and very useful technique! Thank you, Jon.
ReplyDeleteI wish I had know that a while ago, with a doily I was working on it is black and white and it definitely has a front and back side to it! Thanks for the tip! Yours doily is looking splendid :)
ReplyDeleteYour doily is filled with such pretty spring colors!!! :)
ReplyDeleteIt's going to look lovely when you have finished it, I must put that book on my wish list, I saw a post Jeff had put today talking about the book.
ReplyDeleteThat's a really good way of joining and showing the blip, I really must try that idea.
Margaret
Ah, neat. I've been using Frivole's blipless join on this doily, but of course it doesn't work for shuttle joins.
ReplyDeleteAwesome! Thanks Jon :).
ReplyDeleteYour Round 12 looks very striking! Great idea to use slope & roll there. I myself haven't yet decided what to do when I get there. And thanks for the good review of "New Tatting". :-)
ReplyDeleteLovely doily and colours. Thanks for the tip, I will try to do that.
ReplyDeleteThat is a clever and neat technique. I'll try it. I also love that little Japanese book. You want to learn tatting, when you see that cover!
ReplyDeleteI use this method too, but I like to treat it as a downward picot and I add a repeat of the second 1/2 of a ds before pulling the working thread down and through to make the join. then make an extra first 1/2 ds before continuing on with the normal chain.
ReplyDeleteI just received the book, and so far I really like it. Good techniques in it.
ReplyDelete